[CUSTOM] OMFG! Kitbash newbie alert!!!

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:28 pm

Nothing major, I'm starting small... I've got a spare Sideways, and Plan A is just to do the black on the vehicle mode. So, what sort of paints are recommended? Model kit type ones, or something else? Is there any need for primer for black paint?

TIA

Rack 'n Ruin · Post by **Rack 'n Ruin** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:41 pm

Cliffjumper wrote:Nothing major, I'm starting small... I've got a spare Sideways, and Plan A is just to do the black on the vehicle mode. So, what sort of paints are recommended? Model kit type ones, or something else? Is there any need for primer for black paint?

TIA

Excellent! Someone else who will know the worry of utterly buggering up an expensive and well liked toy through inadequate painting skills! Pay off is, when it works it is really is brilliant!

Anyhoo, it depends what it is I'm painting black, but if it is a small area I tend to use enamel paint (e.g. Humbrol).

I know the more experienced kitbashers tend to use acrylics as they are less brittle, can go on smoother and can age better. I have found that acrylics can be tricky to get good coverage with. If you want to go down that road then I'd say Tamiya acrylics seem to be pretty good, from my experience.

I am very happy with my Alt Blue/Silver/Whatever Streak though, and there I painted the bonnet & car roof with Humbrol 85 Satin Black. One coat only and it is done. Nice and smooth.

Be warned though - I have heard that enamel paint can react with some plastic types, destroying the toy. And that is Sideswipe's job...

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:03 pm

Cheers, nice to know some UK-avaliable brands - I read a few topics here, and most mentioned US brands.

The Sideways came in a job lot that paid for itself with Ravage, thankfully, so if I do **** him up, it's a case of nothing lost really.

Treadshot A1 · Post by **Treadshot A1** » Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:30 pm

I'm assuming you mean ROTF Sideways?

Personally, given it's black, you can go with either acrylics or enamels. Generally it's easier to start with acrylics, but use what suits you. Black covers anything other than itself, so you shouldn't need primer. You got Games Workshops near you? Like, the company that made Warhammer. I'd recommend their Citadel Colour range of paints.

Don't think i've ever heard of enamel paint ever f*cking up a figure, not an official one at any rate. Certainly never happended to me.

Pun-3X · Post by **Pun-3X** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:01 am

Yeah, enamels are the way to go with small stuff. I do find that acrylics are better if you are looking for something really flat in color (enamel flat colors tend to come across a bit glossy regardless. Dunno why...)

Definitely wait between coats. If it's not heavy enough the first time, wait a few hours for the second or you might start streaking the coat that's already on. Same as painting and staying in the same spot--it just moves the paint around after a while. Sometimes trying to get those mistakes filled back in by repainting makes a mess. Usually, though, you can get what you want with the first go--especially black.

Otherwise, it's mostly experimenting. Painting, seeing what works and what fails, keeping that in mind the next time, try-try again, repeat. Isn't the hardest thing, though. Still, I've always preferred spray painting--even smaller details (I usually mask stuff off, and that can be tedious, but the coats always go on more evenly. I cheat, I know...)

Good luck and stuff.

Prowl1984 · Post by **Prowl1984** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:36 pm

I've decided in the last few days to have a go at kitbashing. just starting off with painting and general restoration for now. I sprayed g1 brawl with a grey primer yesterday and i'm about to have a go at paining him using acrylics. I've been going on ebay and buying up some cheap sacrificial tf's, such as G1 Twin Twist, for practice.

Prowl1984 · Post by **Prowl1984** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:54 pm

Also, could anyone give me a few tips on how to get that worn/gritty/ realistic look? i.e frenzy/rumble's constructicons

Post by **Clay** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 5:44 am

Testors are what I've used. They also make a sub-brand called Modelmaster. Dunno if they're available in the UK. I use acrylics.

Savannahtron · Post by **Savannahtron** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:36 pm

On the cheap, when I used to kitbash, I would give the toy a good bath with rubbing alcohol, then I take the parts I wanted the same color and spray paint them. It's all in the flick of the wrist for a smooth coat.

I would then use a fine tip brush for the smaller details. Sometimes taking a toy and soaking it in a paint bath (mostly water, paint, and some ether) will let the paint adhere to the tiny details for the dirty mecha look.

The guys who do the professional kitbashes use air brushes etc. I never had an interest in that.

I guess if one were good at painting model kits, one would aptly transition those skills into kitbashing.

Prowl...

Not that I know what Frenzy Rumble does for sure, but lot of his stuff looks like he either uses a dremel tool (with the various attachments) to get the various scratches/dings/pock marks that he wants. In addition, he uses a lot of other bots to form his joints like arms etc. He posts what types of paints he uses on some of his posts, but the trick of his trade is that there are not that many people who kitbash like him or who do it for commission.

I would say take some junkers and try, or you can take some new deluxes and try it as well.

MissingSea · Post by **MissingSea** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:30 am

In the UK I'd go for Games Workshop paints, they're fairly cheap (just over a couple of quid) and go on fairly easily. With black it should only take one or two coats, but if you're doing lighter coloured coats it generally takes more. In addition after you've painted the bits you want, apply a varnish (again Games workshop do a clear hard coat). I'd also recommend giving the figure a quick wash in soapy water to remove any mold release agents.

For the weathered look, that's probably a mixture of dry brushing (putting a very small amount of paint on the brush, wiping it almost dry on a paper towel or such and then lightly brushing over the area so that it highlights certain bits - there are some tutorials floating around the web for this) and also a wash (slightly thinned colours that are applied and basically flows into the cracks/low spots). These are pretty basic instructions and there are more advanced tutorials floating around out there if you want to get more into it ( I think Jin Soatome's website has some painting tutorials).

Raze · Post by **Raze** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:56 am

I found this of assistance

http://www.angelfire.com/mech/jinsaotom ... Paint.html

Treadshot A1 · Post by **Treadshot A1** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:43 pm

Prowl1984 wrote:Also, could anyone give me a few tips on how to get that worn/gritty/ realistic look? i.e frenzy/rumble's constructicons

Jin's guides are good, like Raze said.

Also, you might want to look up Drybrushing, as that is used quite commonly to simulate exposed metal. It's basically using generally silver (or whatever you want), but after dipping your brush in, wipe off as much back into the pot as you can. Then, wipe the rest off with a paper towel. There should only be very little paint left, and when you run it over surfaces with raised textures or an edge, only the raised parts will get paint, simulating the damaged parts.

optimusskids · Post by **optimusskids** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:52 pm

For small areas of black I find the the sort of pens used on Ovehead Projectors work

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:41 pm

Okay, so Revel paints are far too thick. What works as a paint stripper? Wish I'd seen that tutorial sooner... though on the downside I'm probably going to have to go into Games Workshop, which I really don't want to do.

Post by **Clay** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:45 pm

Rubbing alcohol strips paint with a bit of scrubbing.

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:51 pm

Awesome, thanks. And it looks like I can get Citadel paints off ebay... Phew! Sideways looks alright froma distance, but up close the paint's obviously too thick, and looking at the RPM/FAB figures, a matt would have been a much better choice. Plus I really regret not going anything about the robot mode... Live and learn; this is the benefit of starting out on a figure I can basically destroy if it comes down to it, rather than upgrading botching anything I only have one of.

Post by **Clay** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:23 pm

Cliffjumper wrote: Live and learn; this is the benefit of starting out on a figure I can basically destroy if it comes down to it, rather than upgrading botching anything I only have one of.

Well, you will. Best thing to do is learn how to clean paint off and try again.

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:39 pm

Plus I never realised the back corners of the bonnet flipped up until I tried to take the unit apart, so already my other Sideways is showing the benefits.

QQ: does nail varnish remover work? I seem to remember someone else mentioning it, and there's a big bottle downstairs...

Post by **Clay** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:47 pm

Nail varnish = acetone = stripped paint. Acetone will, however, also eat the plastic itself with prolonged exposure. That won't happen if you're just scrubbing with a cotton ball, though.

I also think it stinks much more than alcohol. Important considerations and all.

Cliffjumper · Post by **Cliffjumper** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:52 pm

Cool - I used it before to strip a half-arsed coat of paint off a KO, just wanted to check newer plastic wouldn't get fuXX0red. Yeh, planning to basically wipe the thing down and wash the stuff straight off. While smoking, so the smell's not a problem. Ta!